Zagat: The Marrow Combines Rich Heritage In West Village
Zagat editor Kelly Dobkin recently checked out the Italian and German inspired cuisine at the new meat-focused restaurant The Marrow and filed the following report.
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Located in the former Paris Commune space on the corner of Bank and Greenwich Streets, The Marrow is the third West Village restaurant from chef Harold Dieterle.
"The concept behind The Marrow is it’s a meat-focused restaurant featuring German and Italian cuisine," says Dieterle. "The key factor is to have a good balance. I find myself in certain areas with certain types of meat wanting to go to the Italian side and with other pieces of meat I want to go to the German side. It really is just me doing what I usually do which is is whatever I want. It’s fun and it’s worked out so far."
The menu pays homage the chef’s German and Italian heritage and offers two distinct menus in one. Some dishes are even directly inspired by Dieterle’s family recipes.
"I grew up in kind of a split household. My mother’s side of the family is Sicilian and my father’s is German," recalls Dieterle. "Two of my favorite dishes is the bone marrow which is kind of this very decadent dish. It’s a split marrow bone, we put sea urchin on top of it, meyer lemon aioli, some fried potatoes, some celery greens and we serve it with some toast. On the German side of things, my favorite dish is the braised lamb neck with rutabaga puree, red sauerkraut and whole roasted carrots."
The space itself is broken up into a small bar area, and a larger dining area featuring some notable design details.
"My favorite aspect of the space actually are the windows," says Dieterle. "I love the light in here it’s everything we look for in a space. It’s timeless, it’s bright, it’s airy. I actually put the antiques together on the wall. We had this fellow that's from Pennsylvania that does this for a living. He collects antiques so he just put a collection together, brought them over here and I got to pick them out, it was fun."
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